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Saltwater Popper Bodies

      The follow is a brief discussion of the merits and limitations of but a few choices in materials for popper bodies.

Wapsi Ridged Foam Bodies

      Manufactured to match up with Tiemco TMC 511S hooks, these hard foam bodies withstand toothy critters better than most other popper bodies.  They are heavy, a 2/0 popper will give you a real workout on a 9 wt, and they land with a decided plop and ride low in the water.  Not my first choice for quiet backcountry situations, but probably the first popper I would grab out of my box to cast into a school of 15 lb bluefish.

      Press and stick eyes hold relatively  well, especially if you clean the popper with alcohol just prior to applying the eyes.  The bodies are easily colored with waterproof markers.   Hooks hold well with CA glue.  Bodies tend to shatter if smacked against a bridge pilling on a windy night with an over enthusiastic cast.

This is about as long as I like for tails on any
of my saltwater poppers.   I would tie it only
half as  long for any situation where quick
and accurate cast may be essential to success.

Cork Bodies

      I like cork poppers.   They float high, easy to cast, and they are at least durable enough that I continue to invest my time tying them.  I seldom use pre-shaped bodies, preferring instead to shape mine from still fishing floats or bottle stopper corks.  With a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper that is glued to a one foot square board, I can shape a dozen bodies in less than ten minuets.

      I choose freshwater hooks for most of my cork poppers because of weight.  The body and/or the hackle is usually shot long before the hook is too rusty to fish with.

As you can see, I am not one to invest very
much time painting popper bodies.  This is a
good backcountry color combination, it also
  works just fine on largemouth bass. 

Bob's Banger

      With roots on the Jersey shore, this fly was developed to contend with full grown bluefish.  The hook eye is at centerline, which makes this fly is a real noise maker.  The foam head is not cemented to the hook, allowing new hook and hackle to be inserted when a bluefish gets the best of it.  Surprisingly light, yet more durable than most poppers when it comes to dealing with toothy critters.

      Edgewater Popper Bodies

      Manufactured in a variety of shapes and a few different colored close cell foam, these bodies are tough and durable, yet relatively light weight.  Hooks hold in well when glued with CA, and the light colored bodies are easily colored with waterproof markers.  Self adhesive eyes to not stay on for very long without the use of an additional adhesive.  A bit pricey, but probably cost effective as a durable alternative to balsa or cork.

Balsa Poppers

      Fishing on the Chesapeake Bay back in the early 70's it was hard to ignore the influence of Bill Gallasch's Popping Bugs.  Note how the hair is inserted into the body and not tied to the hook,  almost impossible to fowl when casting.  This is certainly how I developed my affinity for balsa wood poppers.

      Although a bit more work to shape than a cork popper, the increased durability of the end product is well worth the effort.  If you are conservative with your paint application, a balsa popper will end up lighter than a cork popper.

      Balsa can be purchased from most hobby and model shops, and is  commonly available in sizes big enough to make even the largest of sailfish poppers.

Injection Molded "Rubber"

      Illustrated is a popper from Mr. Bobs Lucky Day Popper Co.  No doubt one of the more durable options, and undoubtedly one of the heaviest poppers I have ever cast.  I normally would not hesitate to cast a popper this size on a fast 8 wt, this fly however, simply wears me out when I attempt to cast it on anything lighter than a 10 wt.

Harry Hall  

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